On our way to Ki, we visited the oldest, most fascinating and largest congregation of monasteries in the world, including Chos Khor Monastery, 996 AD, and Dankar Gompa. Almost every sect of Buddhism is represented in this region.


A Pilgrimage to the Himalayas
for the Kalachakra Initiation

Story and photos by Sharon Sansone/Spirit of India

The Kalachakra Initiation is the largest and most important Buddhist ritual conferred by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. It is traditionally given to groups of people assembled from around the world and therefore associated with the promotion of world peace. The Kalachakra Initiation is considered a special blessing for all who participate and for the environment in which it is given.

In August, the California-based travel company, Spirit of India, escorted 18 Americans to Spiti Valley, a remote region of the Indian Himalaya bordering Tibet, to participate in the sacred Kalachakra Initiation at the 12th century Ki Monastery. This ceremony was deemed especially significant as it is the closest the Dalai Lama has ever been to Tibet since his exile.

Kalachakra means 'Wheel of Time" which refers to the presentation of cycles of time within the Kalachakra Tantra, and is also the name of one of the Buddhist deities which represents particular aspects of the Enlightened Mind. The word tantra means "an everlasting stream of continuity." It forms a part of a system of teachings and practice conferred by the Buddha to his disciples.

Traditionally the Kalachakra teachings have been a closely guarded secret with the viewing of the sand mandala as the culmination of a twelve day initiation ritual. However, the Dalai Lama, recognizing the many misconceptions surrounding Tibetan Buddhist practice, began presentations of the Kalachakra Sand Mandala to the general public as a cultural offering.

Each morning we arose from our tents at 4:30 am, ate a quick bite and hopped in our jeeps for the 45 minute drive up the precariously narrow, winding mountain road toward Ki Monastery (also spelled Key and Kee). About two-thirds of the way there we would disembark and walk the remaining way up, as only VIP cars could drive all the way to the entrance. The morning walks were a glorious time. All the most devoted pilgrims were on the path with us--husbands and wives with small children on their backs, elders walking tall and strong, giggling young teenage girls We were greeted with wide smiles and the traditional Tibetan greeting, Tashi Delek!

Although there was no official recording of attendance, by most accounts there were about 10,000 people attending the Kalachakra in total; about 200 were westerners. Unlike the ceremonies in recent years held in Europe or the United States, there was no admission fee to attend this Kalachakra in India.

We arrived at Ki Monastery at 6 am to lay claim to coveted spots as close to His Holiness as possible. It was truly amazing to sit with him in such an intimately Buddhist setting-- literally on the mountain top, prayer flags fluttering, scorching sun beating on us. We did not even mind that the program usually began at about 1 pm.

As people quickly filled the courtyard space, we were surrounded from all sides and several thousand bodies deep by Buddhist pilgrims from every part of India and Nepal. Throughout the hours of sitting before the Dalai Lama appeared, we huddled on mats under the shade of shared umbrellas as an ongoing exchange of food took place with our neighbors. The baby next to me was crying so I gave him my boxed juice; his mother gratefully accepted and later I was passed an apple. I brought extra photos I had made the year before of Ki Monastery and gave them to Tibetans that I could tell would not have their own camera. Each bowed thank you to me and touched the photo to their forehead and then held it up to the sky.

When the Dalai Lama appeared on the small stage above us, an instant hush came over the crowd as we all rose in unison and held our hands in prayer. Many began doing prostrations, a physical movement that looks a bit like the yoga sun salutations. His Holiness greeted us with a bow, hands also in prayer; his famous smile and twinkling eyes looking into each and everyone of us.

The Dalai Lama spoke in the Tibetan language with translations available via transistor radio in English, French, German, Italian and Hindi. From time to time monks would come through the crowd of about 10,000 to distribute tea, and various props pertaining to the rituals such as protection string, a red band of cloth to signify blinders, a lotus flower and two stalks of Kuscha grass to enhance dreaming. There were times when we would repeat Tibetan chants with the crowd which were interspersed with the playing of Tibetan horns, drums and the Dalai Lama's chuckles.

We followed along as best we could watching the monks and more experienced practitioners. Some of the group members had brought along a book, "Kalachakra: A Rite of Initiation." The book was valuable in explaining in great detail the meaning of each ritual and helped us keep up with where we were in the ceremony each day.

For a Buddhist practitioner, taking the initiation confers permission to begin study and practice of the Kalachakra Tantra with the motivation to free all beings from suffering and actualize realizations of the path to enlightenment. For the non-Buddhist who does not wish to take the empowerment, the initiation can be taken as a blessing.

New Yorker Alison Murphy states, "I learned a lot about myself in India, really from all the love and affection I felt from everyone in the group. The Kalachakra topped it off, but it was the people in our party that really touched me. I don't think I'll be living my life the way I was before the trip..."

The Kalachakra serves as a universal prayer for peace and harmony in the world. For each individual who participates, it is also a renewal of commitment to one's inner spiritual path.

Spirit of India offers various spiritual journeys to India year-round. Upcoming is "Journey to the Heart of Buddhist India" Dec 18, 2000-Jan 5, 2001 and "Kumbha Mela," Jan 27-Feb 12, 2001. "A Yoga Journey" is offered each Fall. OM Place readers can receive a $300 discount on the Buddhist Journey. For more information, call 888/367-6147 or visit the website.